Spiced monkfish Galton

Christmas is coming and what better way to celebrate than by ensuring you get the very best out of our Great British Seafood by hinting that you want this excellent new fish cook book from Galton Blackiston...

and when the first thing you see is a quote from the Father of Fish you know it's going to be a worthy fish cook book!

The proof of the pudding is in the eating so what better way to review the book than by giving a recipes a go using one of our most abundantly landed fish...

 from the market in Newlyn - a whole monkfish tail.

To go with with the spiced Cornish monkfish is a big aromatic saffron-yellow rice ...

the rice that gets a few extra ingredients...

to give it that extra sweetness and distinctive colour...

while the whole monk tail first needs coating in a Rasel el hanout spice (which is a great Moroccan spice that can be bought readymade) and browning quickly in a pan...

before roasting in a hot oven...

and serving coated with a simple but hugely tasty curry sauce - just blend mushroom, shallots, butter and cream.  This is just one dish from the Spicy section of the book that adds that extra zing to every dish. if you like your shellfish dishes then this book will keep you in good company for dishes that celebrate crab, prawns, scallops, lobster and langoustine!

The book has a neat transparent book jacket that doubles as handy book marks. Inside, over 90 clearly explained recipes are divided up by the kind of meal you might want to serve, Quick, Small Plates, Stress-Free, Mains and so on - with an excellent Basics section, at the back, every dish is referenced by the main ingredient in the index. John Scott Blackwell's photos capture each and every dish as they would appear on the table.

Hook Line Sinker – is a seafood cookbook by Galton Blackiston published by FacePublications.com

Galton Blackiston runs the Michelin-starred Morston Hall hotel and restaurant on the Norfolk coast, and recently opened No1 Cromer, a modern take on the traditional fish and chip restaurant.

Galton is a familiar face to UK food lovers from his regular appearances on the BBC’s Saturday Kitchen, and as a finalist on Great British Menu.

Galton Blackiston says: “Seafood is one of the last truly wild sources of food on the planet. Even though fishing methods have changed dramatically, fish are still wild, living in their natural habitat, and are free to swim where they want and feed how they want. I’m as enthusiastic about it today as I was as a child when I used to go shrimping and catching mackerel.”

The book is a collaboration with Leeds-based specialist publisher Face Publications, whose previous cookery books with Michelin-starred chefs Sat Bains, Graham Garrett, Andrew Pern and James Mackenzie have won international awards.

The book features a foreword by Michel Roux OBE, who says: “Like all the best recipe books, Hook Line Sinker is not merely a collection of recipes but an honest celebration of life, discoveries and ideas: a story shared about the simple, sometimes nostalgic, pleasures of sharing and eating. Few are so intimately and enjoyably written as this one by my friend Galton Blackiston.”

Your chance to experience a truly superb dining extravaganza!

Last few places left for this once in a lifetime event!

These are just some of the red mullet on Newlyn fish market this morning that will be served up later at tonight's, Five at Senara charity meal at Penwith College - there are still a handful of tickets left to enjoy a five course meal that would be the equivalent of dining out on a fish starter from chef @GuyOwen from the Idle Rocks in St Mawes followed by a fish starter from Porthleven chef @JudeKereama at Kota  then sipping some superb wines and taking time to enjoy a classic Lobster Thermidor from Rick Steins' head Padstow chef, @Stephane Delourme followed by a Lamb & Cockle roast from @cheftombrown at Nathan Outlaw's Capital in London followed by a stunning Coffe and Chocolate Opera dessert from Stein's Seafood Restaurant, Stuart Pate - just one dish would be the equivalent cost of the entire meal! - so to enjoy some of the finest cuisine the west can offer grab a last minute table for two or four and phone 01736 335114 or email in your booking! - a meal to savour and remember!..and a big thanks to FalFish and the Real Cornish Crab Company for supplying some of the finest local fish for the night!

BREXIT, ENGOs & THE FISHING INDUSTRY

Assistant chief executive, Dale Rodmell, reflects on Brexit, the disconnect between industry and the Common Fisheries Policy and the influence and role of environmental NGOs.

Fishing became the political poster child for the Brexit campaign. It's easy to see why. More than in any other area of EU policy, the story of fisheries epitomises a sense of lost control and real loss as our industry bore the brunt of year after year of cuts at the hands of a distant invisible bureaucracy the industry gave the impression that it was oblivious to the livelihood needs of fishing communities. Changes to improve things to better connect industry to policy have also seemed slow and insufficient. In order to better understand the issues we now face following the Brexit vote it is worth examining the history of involvement of the fishing industry in the Common Fisheries Policy (CFP) and in more recent times the emergence of environmental NGOs as a significant influence.

The CFP Disconnect

Up until 2004 the only direct engagement the industry had with the CFP machinery was through the Advisory Committee for Fisheries and Aquaculture (ACFA), a forum of industry and representatives of fish workers that advised the Commission across the whole spectrum of European fisheries. As a single forum that only met occasionally it was grossly inadequate for the task of covering the whole spectrum of European fisheries. The Regional Advisory Councils (now Advisory Councils) were first launched in 2004

The first efforts to change this state of affairs followed the crises of the 1990s that saw drastic cuts to whitefish quotas and to the fleet. From the discontent that was generated the 2002 CFP reform saw the introduction of the Regional Advisory Councils (now Advisory Councils). These were much more significant forums with secretariats to support their work and they gave the industry a much more robust platform at a more appropriate scale to influence management decisions, alongside other stakeholders. But the Advisory Councils were not the be all and end all. Advice is just that. It has no direct role in setting management objectives and operational rules. There was wide recognition that involvement still needed to be deepened further.

The opportunity for that came with the regionalisation agenda under the latest reform. At the start of the process the Commission, in its Green Paper of 2009, had started out accepting that there was still something wrong with the relationship between fisheries governance under the CFP and industry. It said that:

"Very little can be achieved if the forthcoming reform fails to motivate the catching sector, the processing and seafood chain as well as consumers to support the objectives of the policy and take responsibility for implementing them effectively. It is critical to the success of reform that industry should understand the need for it, support it and have a genuine stake in its successful outcome. In a mostly top-down approach, which has been the case under the CFP so far, the fishing industry has been given few incentives to behave as a responsible actor accountable for the sustainable use of a public resource. Co-management arrangements could be developed to reverse this situation." (CFP Reform Green Paper, 2009)

Almost as soon as it was printed, however, this whole agenda was all about to be side-lined. In contrast to what the Commission technocrats were thinking, Commissioner Damanaki had spent her time in office either aloof or hostile to industry. The European Parliament with its newly established powers under the Lisbon Treaty had little affinity for grand ideas of delegating responsibility to others when it had just been given responsibility itself. That, combined with the vast majority of MEPs having an almost complete absence of knowledge of the fishing industry, but their ears open to anyone who would tell them what to think, set the stage for the next command and controllers charter that we now see in the current CFP.

How did it turn out that way? Enter the eNGOs. Many newly self-appointed as the guardians of our marine resources and ready to fight on the beaches with a war chest mostly convoyed over from the USA. They got to work firstly with a doom-mongers blitz. Despite ongoing progress with cutting fishing mortality and the start of recovery being seen across the NE Atlantic stocks, according to them stocks were in free fall and heading for extinction - remember the 100 cod left in the North Sea story, and the 2048 end of line hype? In this altered reality, the inference was that industry couldn't be trusted with the public's precious natural resources. They had pillaged them, and always hoodwinked their politicians into agreeing short-termist decisions, right? And there was an urgency to put it all right, if not by 2015, then by 2020 at the latest, no exceptions. Accompanying this narrative was heavy lobbying of the European Parliament to introduce a strict set of regulation to be contained in the core legislation, providing little flexibility for application at the regional level (see figure below).

Then, in the midst of it all, along came one of our celebrity campaigning chefs to lob in a discards PR hand grenade, straight into Commissioner Damanaki's lap. It didn't matter that a lot of the discards were generated by the regulations themselves and that significant progress had already been made to reduce them. In a matter of weeks the industry was handed it back, in-kind; the obligation to (nearly) not throw a single fish over the side...whilst trying to do a circus act to remain within the constraints of all of the other regulations. Actually, the circus act was left for another day - too hard for the hard working legislators to think about at that time. The megalomaniacs were back in charge, and once the deal was signed, congratulating themselves on the fantastic job they had done.

Creating the next command and controller's charter: Left, MEP's eNGO crib sheet during the Parliament vote in 2013. Right, an explanation of what the amendments mean in practice. The first two were adopted in the final reform.

Indeed, a number of them still believe it and continue to press for the toughest interpretation of the reform text. They continue to try to persuade decision-makers that the scientists have it wrong over setting stock biomass levels consistent with sustainable yields. They continue to lambast Ministers for TAC decisions that are different from the single stock advice without acknowledging their role in a legitimate process to consider, beyond this advice, balancing the pace of reaching MSY with mixed fishery considerations and the likelihood of generating large quantities of discards. And they are working to try to set up a police state of electronic monitoring to hold the whole thing together.

Shared Objectives, Wrong-headed Delivery

To be clear, the NFFO has not been against the policy objectives of the CFP. Maximising long-term yields is a good thing, as is minimising discards. But fisheries management can't sit in an ivory tower and hand down these objectives as prescriptive management regulations attached with "plucked out of the sky" non-negotiable deadlines without an appreciation of how to deliver at sea and manage change, whilst maintaining viable businesses. Tighter management has thus come along just when we have been witnessing of stock recovery on the grounds. Maximum Sustainable Yield (MSY) targets have delayed increases to quotas. Across fisheries that had received severe cuts the evidence base which is dependent upon the operating fisheries themselves, has also been undermined resulting in the increased application of the precautionary approach, which leads to reduced quotas simply due to lack of knowledge on stock status. New stocks such as skates and rays have been placed on quota but again with limited evidence, they too have been subject to successive cuts as a consequence of the precautionary approach. All of these situations have led to more instances where fishing opportunities are out of sync with stock abundance. Add the landing obligation (discard ban) to all of this and we are heading for a crunch as the responsibility for the mismatch between available quota and abundance is transferred to the fishing business with the expectation that they can somehow perform the circus act and avoid breaking the law. And if they can't, they tie up and go bust. That's the prospect of what so-called "choke" stocks mean when the available quota of one stock has been used up but the stock can't be avoided and so fishing for other species has to stop.

eNGOs and Brexit

The Brexit vote demonstrated in spectacular fashion that keeping those who are affected by decisions remote from decision-making and marginalised from the agenda, that politics can and does come back to bite. Of course, fisheries were part of a much wider leave narrative over governance, identity, democracy and exclusion, but it was used graphically in the Leave campaign to make the point.

In the wake of the vote, there is likely to be a lot of soul-searching in the EU about how to better connect the supra-national institutions to national populations. But the influence of eNGOs that was prominently visible in the latest CFP reform, and their habit of lobbying for top-down command and control environmental policy from the centre, hasn't gone away with the vote. eNGOs are not accountable to the electorate. And in Europe, the UK probably has an eNGO community that is more active than in any other nation.

eNGOs didn't want Brexit. A large amount of environmental policy is attached in some way to EU governance, and as some have argued in our EU referendum blog, fisheries and other environmental issues go beyond the reach of single countries. But already some are calling on the UK government to be tough on regulation and others are seeking to disenfranchise our industry by claiming that we fail to understand sustainability and the conservation of natural resources upon which our industry depends.

Rubbish. A cursory glance at our website and the work we are involved in will prove that is not the case. Such an assertion reflects just the sort of attitude of blaming the people for their lot and trying to marginalise them from decision-making that is the cause of political ruction, certainly not a solution to it. Such eNGOs should hold a mirror up to themselves about what the vote represented. I appreciate, nonetheless, that so far in talking about eNGOs I am lumping together a great number of organisations and stereotyping them as one. That is unfair. Not all are concerned with implementing legalistic regulatory frameworks from the centre and not all work to demonize and control the fishing industry without having anything to do with it. Indeed, some have a more collaborative side. The Advisory Councils have been pioneering in bringing eNGOs together with industry. In the fruits of the consensus-based advice that they produce, they demonstrate what is possible.

Working in Partnership

There is also a growing number who are beginning to work directly to support industry. We in the industry need to foster these relationships, whilst continuing to call out those who would rather work in the shadows and transmit falsehoods about our industry, ferment division and continue to pedal the doom-mongers narrative in order to justify their next grant or charitable donation.

There is a lot to do that could be achieved working in partnership. We must strive to improve the ability of industry to generate its own evidence to be able to help to plug the gaps in our fisheries knowledge base. We need to press ahead with management approaches that incentivise industry, undertaking trials and ensure that what works is adopted more widely. We need to create a policy environment where fisheries management is not all about compliance with the rules, it is about shared objectives, shared management, and mutual buy-in. We must show how that is a different and a better way to the centralising tendencies of top-down control.

What Next?

There are many governance models for our fisheries that may materialise post-Brexit. There is nothing to say that one or other of the possibilities would not be some form of top-down control. Like any system of governance, when the pieces are thrown in the air they can so easily land with all the power greedily held at the centre or result with powerful lobbies dictating the terms. We will, of course, be working to see that whatever model it is, it is inclusive of the industry. I'll close with a prediction. Fisheries will continue along the path to recovery and at some point the doom-mongers' currency about our industry, like the boy who cried wolf, will be worthless. Those eNGOs that stick to it will either wither or go onto something else. The surviving ones still working in fisheries will be the ones that are actually supporting industry to sustainably manage its own affairs and celebrating what is possible. Bring on the optimists.

Full story courtesy of the NFFO website.

Fabulous Fish, Fishermen and Filleting Competition at Newlyn Fish Market

Brilliant October sunshine kissed the Chefs’ Forum’s fifth Cornwall event, this time held at Newlyn Fish Market. Budding young chefs from Cornwall College got the opportunity to board fishing boats and talk to skippers about life at sea. Top chefs from across Cornwall learnt about sustainable fishing in Cornish Waters from the Cornish Fish Producers Organisation. 

This event celebrated collaboration between industry networking organisation The Chefs’ Forum and the Cornish Fish Producers Organisation with a common purpose to teach chefs and hospitality students about where the fish they use in their everyday profession comes from and factors facilitating its availability. 

Andy Wheeler, spokesperson for the CFPO stated: “It was great to be able to host The Chefs’ Forum here at the fish market, the market was transformed into a kitchen for the day and the students worked with their lecturers to brilliantly showcase Newlyn market fish in producing some excellent canapés. He continued “Inviting the chefs and students onto the boats was a great way to encourage them to cook with less mainstream species such as megrim sole and let them know about the abundant quantity of hake being caught off the Cornish coast. Using species that are in plentiful supply really helps our fishermen.” 

Stephane Delourme then judged two heats of a fish filleting competition; students then professional chefs. VRQ Level 2 student Fraser Hill won the student element which secured him a ‘money can’t buy experience’ of a day shadowing Stephane in his kitchen. This will contribute towards making him ‘industry-ready’ on leaving College in line with College learning objectives communicated to culinary guests at the event. Anton Buttery of Langman’s Restaurant, Callington won the professional heat with a score of a perfect ten for his filleting expertise. Anton’s prize was a box of goodies from Chefs’ 

Forum sponsors Total Produce, Forest Produce and Cornish Sea Salt. It is this vital support that makes Chefs’ Forum events possible as they are free to attend for students and chefs. The day was rounded off with a fabulous boat trip out to sea for chefs to try their hand at mackerel fishing. The chefs and students had a great day and relished the chance to catch up with friends old and new whilst learning about the provenance of Cornish fish.

Under a mackerel sky, under new ownership - a must-do place to eat in Penzance

After over ten years of outstanding quality and service under the nurturing hand of Stevie McCrindle...

the Mackerel Sky restaurant in Penzance now has new owners who have already stamped thier own mark on this iconic Penwith eatery in the centre of town...

owner and chef Jamie MacLean's better half, art teacher Nina has added some colour and joie-de-vivre to the upstairs room...with this eponymous mural of Mount's Bay under a mackerel sky...

this squid in feather-light batter was a work of art in itself...

and like all the fish on the menu it doesn't get any fresher than that supplied by either the Newlyn Fish company or Mousehole Fish...

the welcome aboard sign outside means come on in and enjoy in any language!

"The entire species of fish are in danger........."

We could really do without this level of hype when introducing your show Martha!.

Memory studies are often some version of a phenomena known as primacy-recency - most people during a given period will remember the first things they are told and the last.  In this TV lifestyle/cooking show from the USA, host Martha Stewart talks in the following apocalyptic terms:


"...that one day we might not be able to catch, or eat eat any fish any more"

Dear Martha, do we really need this degree of dramatisation in order to talk about buying fish to cook at home?!

This is exactly the reason skipper Peter Bruce threw down the gauntlet to journalist-come-chef Hugh Fearnely-Whittingstall to come out on the boat and see at first hand the results of years of stringent gear modifications, restricted areas and the positive effects of intiatives like the Responsible Fishing Scheme of which he was a pioneer for Seafish.

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall praised North Sea fishermen after The Real Fish Fight was launched

Celebrity chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall says he is listening to Peterhead skippers angered that his TV show misrepresented them and the UK fishing industry.

Hugh’s Fish Fight dumped the reality of discards right into the living rooms of the public; highlighting the merits of sustainable fishing and calling for action to be taken to ‘save our seas’.

His methods however, angered a group of trawlermen who fought back with The Real Fish Fight campaign.

The campaigners voiced concerns that the series did not differentiate between the healthy North East sector and troubled markets elsewhere in the country.

They also argued that "there are plenty of fish in the sea".

Now Hugh says he has been listening to the campaigners' arguments and says he recognises how healthy the north-east industry is.

And he has heaped praise on campaign leader Peter Bruce, calling him a "top skipper" and someone who could "lead the UK fishing industry".

Speaking to STV, Hugh said: "I know that Peter Bruce of the Real Fish Fight is one of the top skippers in Scotland and catches great quality fish. He is on the innovative catch-quota system and so doesn’t discard any cod and has an MSC certificate of sustainability for his haddock.

"He’s the sort of fisherman to lead the UK fishing industry in the right direction. I think we’ve got a lot in common and I am listening to what the Real Fish Fight has to say.

"I do acknowledge that cod stocks are doing well in the North Sea from their all-time low point in 2006 and applaud fishermen and fishery managers for their hard work to make that happen. But looking at all stocks, across the whole UK, it’s a complicated situation.

"Our latest series of Fish Fight focused on Marine Protected Areas, and did not discuss fish stocks in the North Sea. We filmed on the Isle of Man – in the Irish Sea – where cod stocks are still in dire straits, and scientists advise that we shouldn’t catch any cod if we can help it. It’s the same in coastal areas of West Scotland."

A recent haul of cod from Peter Bruce's boat - the Budding Rose

The fishing industry was dealt a heavily blow when, earlier this year, the Marine Conservation Society demoted mackerel on its list of ethical fish to eat, causing Hugh to ditch his campaign to get "mac baps" into Britain’s chippys.

North Sea fishermen met with green groups, WWF, Marine Scotland and fisheries scientists, to find a solution to the depleting stocks and have swapped their nets for different mesh sizes to allow younger fish to escape.

Campaign founder and skipper, Peter Bruce, said: "We’re not happy with the way that we have been portrayed. What the programme called facts were just lies. We thought there was such a misrepresentation of the situation; we had to set up on our own.

"There are plenty of fish in our seas. His campaign is all about scaremongering and I know that to be true because every time we take the boat out we can see for ourselves on our equipment just how many fish there are out there.

"Fishermen haven't been given any credit for their efforts, and there is no evidence to suggest that by banning fishing in certain areas that fish numbers will increase, or that this will be the best way to conserve."

The fishing fleet at Petehead has fallen from 120 vessels in the 1990s to only 30. Two weeks ago, Peter’s boat, The Budding Rose, hauled her largest ever catch of cod - 30 tonnes in a single net.

The Budding Rose recently landed 30 tonnes of of cod in a single net in Peterhead

Peter added: "I had never seen a catch like that in all my 30 years at sea. The boat’s ram was completely bent out of shape by the weight of the catch - so much so it has had to be removed for repairs to be carried out.

"It was taken around 20 miles from closed cod spawning grounds; I had been fishing for haddock. I was in contact with a fellow skipper who was 75 miles away and he was having a similar experience."

Peterhead is the UK’s largest white fish and pelagic (mackerel and herring) port and runs an on-site fish market from Monday to Friday.

The fishermen claim that cod stocks in the North Atlantic have reached their highest levels for almost 20 years and ships such as the Budding Rose require only a relatively short time at sea to fill their holds.

Peter Bruce shows off some of his prized cod to promote The Real Fish Fight

Peter added: "Some people want the North Sea left as an aquarium and we just can't have that. We would like the scientists to come out with us and see what we are seeing on the grounds.

"Hugh’s Fish Fight seems to be motivated by raising his profile and bank balance. In the first series, he did a great job of highlighting the issue and we were all for it but we are not happy at his more recent claims about fish stocks."

"The money spent on his campaign should have been spent on scientific research; his measures will not provide a solution, it will only flood the market with products from overseas which have a high carbon footprint."

Hugh’s Fish Fight production company, KEO Films, are currently reviewing their options for a follow-up episode of the series, but have not ruled out a meeting between the two fish crusaders.

Mackerel scene and Hugh's new Fish Fight

HFW on the One Show gives the low down on the latest news from the 'mackerel war' being waged in northern waters. The clip also included out-takes from the new 3 series of Hugh's Fish Fight starting next week.

Q&A: Eat that fish! When overfishing is also sustainable

Many of us think that if a fish species is overfished we probably should be wary about choosing it at the supermarket or on the restaurant menu. But the opposite may be true. Our boycotting of some overfished species may be hurting us and the American fish industry, not the fish. This counterintuitive opinion is laid out by Ray Hilborn, professor of aquatic and fishery sciences at the University of Washington, and co-author of Overfishing: What Everyone Needs to Know. Hilborn holds that the public, food retailers, NGOs and congress have misunderstood what defines a sustainable fishery. In fact overfishing and sustainable can, oddly enough, go together. SmartPlanet caught up with Hilborn in Seattle, WA to get a better understanding of this paradox and why he thinks a fish boycott doesn’t make sense. 


 SmartPlanet: What are red listed fish? Ray Hilborn: Red lists are advice that a number of NGOs provide on what species of fish one should avoid eating. 


 SP: And Whole Foods stopped selling such fish based on these red lists? RH: Yes Whole Foods made a commitment to not sell any food that’s on the red list of the Monterey Bay Aquarium and the Blue Oceans Institute. 


 SP: And other stores and restaurants have done similar things? RH: Yes red lists are widely used. 


 SP: What are the criteria for red-listed fish? RH: The three criteria that most NGOs use. One is status with respect to overfishing. The second is concerns about bycatch. So if you have a fishery that is catching a significant number of turtles, or sharks, or other species they’ll often get red-listed. Finally there are concerns about the environmental impacts of fishing, particularly concerns about trawl nets, or nets that touch the bottom and change bottom habitat. 


 SP: But you have made the point recently that if a species is overfished it doesn’t necessarily mean that it can’t be sustainable. And this seems counterintuitive. People might say well red lists sound more like the right thing to do. RH: There’s an enormous lack of understanding about what sustainability really is. Essentially sustainability has nothing to do with the abundance of the fish and much more about the management system. So if you’re managing it in a way where if it gets to low abundance you’ll reduce catches and let it rebuild. That’s clearly sustainable. You can have fish that are overfished for decades but still be sustainable. As long as their numbers are not going down they are sustainable. Some of it is “overfished” with reference to the production of long-term maximum yield. It doesn’t imply declining and it doesn’t imply threat of extinction. 


 SP: And even if it falls into this latter category that you just described it should be safe for consumers to eat? RH: So long as it’s in a management system like the U.S. where when stocks get to low abundance we dramatically reduce catches, and the evidence is they then rebuild. Then yes, those stocks are perfectly sustainable. 


 SP: What about this issue of bycatch? RH: OK, so the NGOs will say, “Oh this stock is not sustainable because there is bycatch of sharks.” Well the stock is sustainable. Every form of food production has negative impacts on other species. And that’s where there’s an enormous double standard applied to fish. For instance, I guarantee you there’s a big environmental impact of buying soybeans that come from cutting down rainforest. There’s a much higher standard applied to fisheries than almost anything else we eat. 


 SP: What goes into creating a sustainable fishery? RH: The first thing is you have to monitor the trend in the stock. You have to have a system based in good science, that says this stock is going down. Then your management actions have to respond to the trend. 


 SP: What about foreign fish? Which ones can we eat? RH: Much of the fish of the world do not qualify as sustainable because we just don’t know what’s happening in other countries like Africa or Asia. Now, very few fish from those markets makes their way to the U.S. market. But some of the Atlantic cod populations in Europe are still fished much too hard. But the big propulsions in Europe are actually quite sustainable. Much of the cod that make it to the U.S. are coming from Iceland or Norway where the stocks are in good shape. 


 SP: But how do you tell the difference if it’s cod coming from an overfished area? RH: Well, that is a major problem. But if it’s Marine Stewardship Council certified you can be pretty sure that it’s what it claims to be. Personally, I tend to buy a pretty narrow range of fish that come from my region, like salmon, halibut, and black cod. And pretty much all of those are MSC certified. 


 SP: You mention that the boycott on sustainably caught fish does nothing for conservation. RH: You can boycott this all you want, it’s not going to affect what’s caught. Because for these overfished stocks enormous effort is being taken to catch as little as possible and it’s not the consumer market that drives the amount of catch. Those fish are going to be caught and they’re going to be sold because there are a lot of markets in the world that don’t care about classification and red lists, essentially all of Asia, which is the world’s biggest seafood consuming market. The places that consumer boycotts might have an effect is for fish like bluefin tuna or swordfish. 


 SP: Well if boycotting makes no difference, is there a negative side to boycotting? RH: My real target is to tell retailers and the NGOs, “Look, let’s get more reasonable about what we mean by sustainability.” 


 SP: And we need to get more reasonable about the definition of “sustainability” because there are real economic dangers to the fishing industry? Or is it because of something else? RH: Yes, that’s certainly one of the issues. Let’s not punish these fishermen who have paid a very high price to rebuild these stocks. Let’s let them sell what they’re currently catching. 


 SP: So it seems the word “overfished” is also more nuanced? RH: Well I think Congress had this very naïve view that somehow you could manage every stock separately and if cod is depleted, at low abundance well we stop fishing it, but they don’t appreciate the cost of all the other species that we could not catch because we can’t catch those species without also catching some cod as bycatch. Now, there’s a lot of work going on to try to solve that problem. But I it’s important to convince people that we will always have some overfished stocks. And if we continue with our current U.S. statement that ‘no stock shall be overfished’ we’re going to have to give up a lot of food production. We’re certainly doing that now. 


SP: You’ve also argued that fish is a food we need? RH: If we don’t catch certain fish with trawl nets, and let’s say it’s twenty million tons, then that food is going to be made up some other way. And what’s the environmental cost of the other ways of producing the food? My initial calculations suggest that it is quite a bit higher. We should always be saying, “Well if we don’t eat this, where else is the food going to come from, and what’s the environmental cost of that?” 


 SP: So you ultimately feel that the marketing of these red lists has gotten to the point where it’s lost rational sense? RH: Yes. I’m pretty convinced that seafood production is more sustainable than growing corn in Iowa or wheat in Kansas. Because growing corn in Iowa forces us to lose topsoil every year. In another 200 years the topsoil will be be largely gone. Is that sustainable?

By Christie Nicholson | May 30, 2012, 7:17 AM PDT

Mitch Tonks - fish easy!

With the ink barely dry from the publishers, a copy of Mitch Tonk's new book, 'fish easy' fell through the TtG letterbox..........

as the cover suggests, well over 100 recipes are aimed at keeping things simple......

as luck would have it, the skipper from one Newlyn boat dropped off a cracking pair of ray wings so this dish looked too tempting to miss for a trial Tonks  tasting........

with the book conveniently placed its time to get some prep underway.......

a few minutes sees a simple bread based sauce already to go.......

ready to accompany the fish, a handful of light vegetables........

and a pan of the very first Cornish earlies to hit the greengrocer's shelves.......

after surviving the winter, a few sprigs of fresh thyme from the garden are all that is needed to go with the ray while it's cooking........

but not before a hot, heavy pan has given the wing a few minutes on the thicker side......

then the herbs are added and the pan popped in the oven........

ready for the table........

as the name suggests, Mitch's book is full of recipes that are quick to prepare and every bit as tasty and appealing as more complex and time consuming dishes....... 

and is conveniently organised by cooking methods which include........

the oven......... 

and the grill......

throughout the sections there are some really useful cheffy tips and info - like how to salt fish for those culinary classics.......

and a section at the back for all those basic fish dish techniques and methods........

the book is very much a hands-on experience with the Dartmouth based chef making it a personal guide through the clearly written and easy to follow recipes - fish easy gets a TtG top shelf cook book recommendation for those times when you buy some fish and then think about what to do with it once you get home! If you are anywhere near Dartmouth or want to be in touch with  one of England's fishiest chefs, @mitchtonks or @rockfishdevon should keep you in the picture.