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Friday, 30 December 2022

Fish of the Day - Week 7 - Crab

Brown crab stocks are relatively healthy in Cornish waters and the majority of brown crab landed to our ports are caught with crab pots, a selective and low impact fishing method. Always look for fresh local pot caught crab. Best choice for brown crabs are those caught using pots in inshore waters (within Cornwall’s 6 mile limit) where minimum landing sizes are higher. 

Brown crabs have a relatively low vulnerability to fishing as a female crab can produce up to 3 million eggs each year, they grow relatively fast and use our shallow rocky intertidal areas (of which Cornwall has a huge area) as protected nursery grounds. 


The main fishing method used for brown crab is potting. This is a selective fishing method, with very little impact on the seabed. Undersized and berried crabs can be returned safely to the sea unharmed, so there is no problem with killing undersized crabs (discards). As a result pot caught brown crab is one of the most sustainable choices of seafood you can make, even in winter months. The industry has set up a Fishery Improvement Plan for south west crab and lobster potting which aims to further improve the sustainability of these fisheries. In 2019 a total of 2439 tonnes of brown crab were landed to Cornish ports with a value of £7.32 million (MMO data).

Or to be precise


 - brown crab, because there are several other species of crab landed in Newlyn...


each one conforming to the minimum landing size across the top of the shell - 150mm for male and 160mm for female crabs...




the bulk of crab landed in Newlyn is transported abroad, mainly to Spain and Portugal by road...




in 'vivier' lorries...



fitted with tanks containing aerated seawater...


sometimes the netting fleet land just crab claws...



the pots used to catch crab are baited with fish like dogfish or very small gurnard...



the largest boats in Newlyn are owned by the Rowse family and there fleet of mainly steel-hulled boats...

but there are a number of inshore boats who use a mix if fishing gear including pots like the Nazarene in this video.

There are dozens of crab recipes -  apart from the simplest - the crab sandwich which you can enjoy locally at the Red Lion Inn...

 Make your own authentic Thai chilli sauce to go with this hugely tasty crab dish, or cheat and use Nam Ploy if you must......
 some of the ingredients are easy to find in an asian shop (like Steve Chan's in Penzance).......
 but start with freshly boiled whole crab, this one courtesy of Harvey's in Newlyn.......
 to remove the 'body' section push the thumb into the mouth (this takes a bit of effort on a big crab!)......
 remove the body.......
 and pick out the full of flavour brown meat from inside the crab's shell - save for another day - add to a fish soup or stew........
 take off the dead man's fingers - they are not poisonous as such, but being the crab's gills that filter the water they live in - when crabs were taken from close inshore they could potentially become contaminated - but these crabs have come from many miles offshore - apart from anything else they have the the texture of foam rubber so why would you want to eat them?........
 crack the main leg sections with the back of a chopper or heavy knife - with practice you'll get the claws to crack across like this every time.......
 stir fry the chopped chilli, garlic and onion for the sauce.......
 three different sugars used in Asian and Indian cooking - top right, dark brown lump sugar, bottom left yellow lump sugar, top left palm sugar and crushed bottom right......
 final cook through for the chilli sauce......
 before the stick blender does the business......
 time to fry off the crab pieces for a few minutes to heat right through......
add the crab back to the cooked sauce.......
stir fry your preferred mix of veg to accompany the crab and chilli sauce.

Thursday, 29 December 2022

Inshore lining for hake!



Hake is fished with hooks using a longline. It is a very selective technique, which does not cause rejection and does not damage the funds. Direct selling supports sustainable fishing by giving the fisherman a fair income for his work.

Do you want to buy seafood products directly from artisanal fishermen? 

Wednesday, 28 December 2022

OUTCOMES FROM UK/EU CONSULTATIONS – 23/12/22 

 

As per the Trade and Cooperation Agreement (TCA), delegations from the United Kingdom and the European Union met between November and December 2022 to consult on fishing opportunities for 2023, and for certain deep-sea stocks for 2023 and 2024. The Heads of Delegations agreed to recommend to their respective authorities the fishery arrangements. 
 
 
The written record includes agreed measures for 2023 relating to (but not limited to) the following; 
  • Bass. 
  • Spurdog. 
  • Reciprocal measures on access for Albacore. 
  • Non-Quota Stocks 
  • Agreed total catch limits and transfers of quota. 
 
 
The Secretary of State determination under section 23 of the Fisheries Act 2020 is also due to be published today here - Fishing opportunities for British fishing boats - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) 
 
Further updates will continue to be communicated as several areas are worked through. 
 
 
BASS MEASURES 
 
The bass changes detailed below for 2023 will come into effect once the relevant SI (Sea Fisheries Regulations 2021) has been amended. 
  
The changes consist of: 
 
Commercial fisheries. 
 
  • The commercial trawl/seine flexibility will be amended from a 760kg limit per two months to a 3.8 tonnes limit per year
  • Trawl/seine bass bycatch landings will continue to be limited to 5% per trip
  • The commercial hooks and lines limits will be amended from 5.95 to 6.2 tonnes per vessel per year;   
  • The commercial fixed gillnet limits will be amended from 1.5 to 1.6 tonnes per vessel per year.  
  • The closed season remains in place for 1st February to 31st March inclusively. 
 
We do not expect the delay in legislating for the changes to impact fishers’ ability to take advantage of the increased annual limits for nets and hook and line.  
 
For trawl bycatch the 760kg two-month limit will apply until the new legislation is passed. This limit is rarely breached because of the more constraining 5% per trip. However, if this limit might be breached prior to the new annual limit coming into effect, we advise that fishers contact the MMO. The MMO will monitor uptake with a focus on the 5% per trip and the new annual overall limit. 
 
Bass authorisations continue to be required vessels using hooks/lines and nets. 
 
Recreational fisheries. 
 
  • The 2 fish per day bag limit remains in place. 
  • The closed season (catch and release only) for 2023 will remain in January and February. The December closed season will be removed. 
  • For 2024 the retained EU law will be amended to align the closed season with the commercial closed season – February and March. 
 
The closure in December (Starting from Dec 2023 onwards) will be removed and thus provides an additional month for catching and retaining up to 2 fish per day.  
For the recreational sector, this means that the existing catch-and-release season currently underway between December 2022 and February 2023 will remain until this is completed. 

 


 
SPURDOG CHANGES
 
Following ICES advice that the Northeast Atlantic Spurdog stock is recovering and can support a significant level of landings for 2023 and 2024, the UK EU agreement allows for a Spurdog fishery to commence in UK and EU waters as soon as reasonably practicable in 2023. 
Separate total allowable catches have been agreed for the North Sea (UK share 2,781 tonnes) and Western waters (UK share 4,825 tonnes)Quotas have yet to be allocated.  
  
UK waters 
  • Prohibition remains in place until UK legislation amended (further info on timing to be announced). 
  • Until the prohibition is lifted all catches must be discarded. 
  • After the prohibition is lifted a full prohibition of retention of specimens over 100cm will apply to UK and EU vessels (to be enforced through UK legislation). 
  • The landing obligation will apply to specimens 100cm or less once the prohibition is lifted. 
 
EU waters 
  • The prohibition will be lifted from January. 
  • Specimens over 100cm must not be sold for direct human consumption (this will be enforced through licence conditions for UK vessels and through EU legislation for EU vessels). 
  • The landing obligation will apply to all catches. 
 
Quotas 
  • Allocation methodology for North Sea and western waters has yet to be determined. 
  • Catches taken in EU waters before quota allocations have been made will be deducted from quota once allocations are made. 
  • Quotas are expected to be allocated on a precautionary basis directed at bycatch. 
  • Until quotas are allocated fishers should continue to avoid catches where possible. 
 
Catch Reporting 
  • As with all species separate reports (FARs) must be made for catches from respective EU and UK zones. 
 
 



Non-Quota Stocks (NQS) 
 
The information below outlines several measures for non-quota stocks (NQS).
For NQS, we agreed a roll-over of access arrangements for 2023 to ensure continued access to fish NQS in EU waters, worth around £25 million per year to the UK fleet. The agreement also provides increased data on both UK and EU non-quota landings.  
 
A detailed summary of the agreement is as follows:  
   
  • The UK and EU have agreed not to apply the TCA access provisions for non-quota stocks. This is a continuation of the approach taken in 2021 and 2022. We will closely monitor landings of non-quota stocks. 
 
  • As per last year, if either the UK or EU reach 80% of the tonnages provided in the TCA, we will meet and consider any next steps.  
 
  • The UK and EU have agreed to continue the monthly data exchange of non-quota stock landings data. We also reiterated the need to ensure data transparency and robustness and will continue discussions in 2023 to update the first meeting of the Specialised Committee on Fisheries in 2023.  
 
  • Alongside these discussions, the UK and EU have published landings data for 2021 and provisional landings data for the period from 1 January 2022 to 30 September 2022 in Annex 3, outlining total landings for all non-quota species. 
 
  • The UK landed 12151 tonnes in 2021; 8607 tonnes as of September 2022 (provisional). 
 
  • The EU landed 19126 tonnes in 2021; 14452 tonnes as of September 2022 (provisional). 
 
 





Undulate Ray TAC. 
 
The UK and EU have agreed an increase in TAC for Undulate Ray in Area 7d/e. 
For the UK this means an increase from 75 tonnes to 1051 tonnes. This means that Undulate Ray can now be targeted in 7d and 7e, although restrictions on the minimum and maximum landing sizes and the closed period (May to August) still apply. 
The fishery will continue to be regulated via the UK licence schedule and further information on limits will follow.
 




Bluefin Tuna.  
 
Separate to UK/EU negotiations, the UK has a share of 63 tonnes of Bluefin quota. The current position of one fish sold per trip remains in place as per the licence condition.  
 
  
Further information will continue to be communicated in January. 
 
If you have any queries, please direct them to Andrew Wills and Julian Roberts, and/or through your MMO RFG contacts included below. 
 

Tuesday, 27 December 2022

Blue Marine: Wealthy, Well-Connected and Wrong!

Cod forgive us! 


Over the course of this year’s negotiations there has been a persistent drumbeat from Blue Marine about the failures of fisheries mismanagement in general and cod in particular, It is a very selective and often plain wrong narrative that in many ways is self-serving. Without a catastrophe to report on, what is the point of Blue Marine?

In fact, it is not true to claim, as Charles Clover did recently on the BBC, that the UK/Norway and the EU have set quotas at unsustainable levels, and that quotas are never set below scientific advice. In the case of North Sea haddock, a scientific recommendation to increase the quota by 160% was limited to a 30% increase to protect cod stocks because there is a recognised species interaction. For North Sea whiting, an even more precautionary approach was followed. The scientific advice for a 240% increase was also limited to only 30%. Similar precautionary restraint was in evidence on some Celtic Sea stocks, although most were set exactly in line with the ICES headline advice.

This year’s negotiations were notable for the number of stocks pointed in an upwards direction. This can’t always be the case because there is natural variation in the young coming into the fishery each year and that is governed largely by environmental factors.

So, it is just untrue to say that quotas are increased when the stocks go up but not when they go down. But the big picture is of stocks steadily moving in the right direction, always accepting that there will be some statistical outliers.

It is true to say that the other cod stocks in UK water are at a low ebb but two points, ignored by Blue Marine are salient. There are no directed (targeted) fisheries on these stocks, and so fishing pressure on them is very low. Quotas are set at the lowest possible level consistent with unavoidable bycatch in other important fisheries.

The second point is that the science suggests that there is a distributional shift under way, probably related to changing water temperatures. Cod in the North Sea is moving northwards by 12 km per year. What is the appropriate management response as cod moves out of southern waters and become abundant in northern waters? That is a genuine debate that the fishing industry, fisheries scientists and fisheries managers need to have in the New Year.

Without a catastrophe narrative, NGOs like Blue Marine would find it more difficult to obtain funding. They are wealthy and well-connected and wrong.

Since we right-sized our fleets around the turn of the century through decommissioning, fish stocks across the North-East Atlantic have not just recovered from the mismanagement of the 1980s and 1990s but in some stocks – like North Sea haddock and plaice and western hake, the biomass in higher than ever seen in the historic record.

That is not a story of mismanaged decline, but it is an inconvenient truth for the Johnny-come-latelys who pine for the bad old days when their existence might have been justified.

Sunday, 25 December 2022

Christmas at Sea

Skipper and crew of the Ocean Harvester enjoying a Christmas Dinner on the boat - L-R (out of shot) Charlie Richards, Nigel Richards, Mervyn Mountjoy and Brian Gruzelier


Robert Louis Stevenson telescopes the distance between a cosy Christmas scene and a life-and-death struggle on the high seas Snow Storm.

Born in Edinburgh in 1850, Robert Louis Stevenson was the son of a light-house engineer. He was a sickly child and a life-long invalid, but an inveterate traveller, living his final years in Samoa, where he was known as "Tusitala" – the Teller of Tales. While Queen Victoria's reign saw the steady rise of steam-powered ships, sailing vessels only slowly became obsolete, and ships often used a combination of steam and sail. Stevenson had very likely experienced first-hand, if only as a passenger, the drama of "Christmas at Sea."

The poem first appeared in the Scots Observer in 1888, several years after the publication of the enormously successful adventure novel Treasure Island. It's a confident performance, vividly depicting, from the point of view of a crew-member, the life-or-death struggle of steering a sailing-ship through winter storms, and contrasting this with a glowingly sentimental, spy-glass view of a Victorian family Christmas. The dash of novelistic irony in the poem is that the parlour scene the sailor witnesses is taking place in his own childhood home.

Immediately, the poem strikes the reader's tactile sense, with sails frozen so hard their edges "cut the naked hand." Then it troubles our sense of balance with those decks "like a slide, where a seaman scarce could stand." The 7-beat line is well-chosen. The metre is regular, on the whole, but the relentless rise and fall evokes a pitching movement and simultaneous lack of progress: the frequent slight mid-line caesura adds a momentary hesitation, as if the line had crested a wave and was about to topple. There's a brilliant effect when Stevenson adds an extra syllable in line 21, evoking the tumbled sound of church-bells rung "with a mighty jovial cheer." This, the sixth stanza, is where we learn that it's now Christmas morning.

Stevenson never fails to sustain the reader's interest in the story, or faith in the narrator. He finds an authentic-sounding voice, using judicious touches of dialect spliced with enough sailing jargon to make for a thoroughly convincing mariner's tale – to this landlubber, anyhow. At first, the protagonist speaks as a crew-member, but later shifts from the collective "we" as his experience becomes a personal one and separates him from the others.

Unfolding at a smooth, unhurried pace, the narrative maintains tension, and a happy ending for the ship and her crew seems by no means guaranteed. Stevenson's craft reminds me of something once said by the poet-priest Peter Levi: that a poet must hear every nuance of his poem just as an 18th century sailor would have been aware of every creak and squeak of his ship. Stevenson tacks and hoists the sails of the narrative with a timing that is truly elegant.

The domestic scene the speaker views with such uncanny clarity is clearly not meant to be a fantasy. The house he sees above the coastguard's is where his parents are still living, celebrating Christmas under the shadow of an absent son. He sees the old couple in some detail: they, of course, cannot see him. The ship is eventually manoeuvred into safety and now the speaker most sharply feels his separation from the collective: "And they heaved a mighty breath, every soul on board but me…" The danger is past and the vessel is "pointing handsome out to sea" but the speaker is stricken with guilt and a sense of mortality. He left home before, but without thinking about it. The voyage has been one of understanding: he has learnt that time passes, parents age and die. Now he is really leaving home.

Whether you're literally at sea, or only metaphorically "all at sea" this Christmas, here's wishing "Poem of the Week" readers a a cheery and storm-free passage through the festivities … "Fetch aft the rum, me hearties."



Christmas at Sea

The sheets were frozen hard, and they cut the naked hand; 
The decks were like a slide, where a seaman scarce could stand; 
The wind was a nor'wester, blowing squally off the sea; 
And cliffs and spouting breakers were the only things a-lee.

They heard the surf a-roaring before the break of day; 
But 'twas only with the peep of light we saw how ill we lay. 
We tumbled every hand on deck instanter, with a shout, 
And we gave her the maintops'l, and stood by to go about.

All day we tacked and tacked between the South Head and the North; 
All day we hauled the frozen sheets, and got no further forth; 
All day as cold as charity, in bitter pain and dread, 
For very life and nature we tacked from head to head.

We gave the South a wider berth, for there the tide race roared; 
But every tack we made we brought the North Head close aboard: 
So's we saw the cliffs and houses, and the breakers running high, 
And the coastguard in his garden, with his glass against his eye.

The frost was on the village roofs as white as ocean foam; 
The good red fires were burning bright in every 'long-shore home; 
The windows sparkled clear, and the chimneys volleyed out; 
And I vow we sniffed the victuals as the vessel went about.

The bells upon the church were rung with a mighty jovial cheer; 
For it's just that I should tell you how (of all days in the year) 
This day of our adversity was blessèd Christmas morn, 
And the house above the coastguard's was the house where I was born.

O well I saw the pleasant room, the pleasant faces there, 
My mother's silver spectacles, my father's silver hair; 
And well I saw the firelight, like a flight of homely elves, 
Go dancing round the china plates that stand upon the shelves.

And well I knew the talk they had, the talk that was of me, 
Of the shadow on the household and the son that went to sea; 
And O the wicked fool I seemed, in every kind of way, 
To be here and hauling frozen ropes on blessèd Christmas Day.

They lit the high sea-light, and the dark began to fall. 
'All hands to loose top gallant sails,' I heard the captain call. 
'By the Lord, she'll never stand it,' our first mate, 
Jackson, cried. … 'It's the one way or the other, Mr. Jackson,' he replied.

She staggered to her bearings, but the sails were new and good, 
And the ship smelt up to windward just as though she understood. 
As the winter's day was ending, in the entry of the night, 
We cleared the weary headland, and passed below the light.

And they heaved a mighty breath, every soul on board but me, 
As they saw her nose again pointing handsome out to sea; 
But all that I could think of, in the darkness and the cold, 
Was just that I was leaving home and my folks were growing old.

R.L. Stevenson

Friday, 23 December 2022

Fish of the Day - week 7 - Cuttlefish

It's not that many years ago that boxes of cuttlefish landed could be counted on one hand, a few kilos here and there... 


then, around ten years ago word went round that the Brixham beam trawlers were landing not boxes but 400kg tubs of cuttlefish or 'black gold', it's the one single species of fish that has seen Brixham and its big beam trawl fleet gross more than Newlyn overall in recent years...


the his seemingly uninviting fish has some huge fans when it comes to cooking and eating, read on!..

When the creator of BBC1's Saturday Kitchen presented the concept to host chef James Martin five years ago there's no doubt that when Martin compiled his wish list of chefs to have on the show, top of that list would have been Pierre Koffman - five years later and a dream comes true - here's a chef with no pretentions - at the Berkley Hotel's restaurant, La Tante Claire his signature dish was pig's trotter - and on Saturday's show the three-starred Michelin chef (one of only a handful in the UK) set about demonstrating a simple dish using the humble cuttlefish......... 

 the thickest part of three cuttles were separated, cleaned, squeezed together and frozen.......

 the rest, including tentacles were finely chopped........

 and sautéed in shallots and butter before adding the Bolognese sauce .......

meanwhile, the frozen cuttlefish were sliced on a meat slicer - there's a good chance that you could replicate this at home with a peeler.......
the sliced cuttlefish was then plunged in boiling water for 20 seconds and served as the 'pasta'
with the sauce on top plus garnish - for full details of the recipe and a chance to watch it for the next few days, head on over to the Saturday Kitchen web site........




The fish also has a siginificant connection with this part of Cornwall. Delegates at a conference held at the Villa St Andrea in Taormina in Sicily in 1979 were presented with this unusual cook book. Printed on recycled paper - well before recycling became fashionable - the book contains recipes, many fish based, unique to Sicily......each one written first in Sicilian......then Italian....

followed by an English translation - however, those of you with a limited knowledge of Italian (rather than Sicilian) may just spot a significant error in this recipe for squid and cuttlefish twixt the original and the English version!

Either way, the recipe is a delicious way of preparing the these delicate creatures at this time of year when they are in abundance (when the boats can get to sea).

Apart from the fact that cuttles are also fished by boats from the tiny port of Taormina the links don't stop there. Amongst many notable Englishmen living was Lord Bridport, the Duke of Bronte who entertained others like DH Lawrence. The Villa St Andrea was once owned by a Cornishman whose family came from Zennor then Ludgvan near Penzance. The Trewhella family, later railway engineer and mine owner Robert Trewhella lived in the villa, which was much later (in the 1950s) converted to the luxury hotel it is today. Another English connection with the port was the Nelson family - use Google translation for this page.

The story of the villa hotel has an incredibly tragic element. As with many parts of Sicily the coastline consists of sheer cliffs with tiny ports at the foot of these cliffs. The grounds of the villa above Taormina end at a steep cliff edge - access to the port itself is by funicular railway built by Robert Trewhella. On the 5th of April 1959 the wife of Alfred Percy Trewhella (search on the page), Gertrude Deidamia Sarauw stepped out of the way of a car in the villa grounds and fell, as she did so, her husband Alfred tried to catch hold of her and, tragically, the two of them fell to their deaths.

Maybe someone can help with the Trewhella family history being researched here by Harry Manley.


The UK's only 2 star Michelin fish chef is also a fan of the cuttle;

St Enodoc Hotel in Roc and recently awarded two Mchelin Stars to boot.

For the Cuttlefish

1kg cuttlefish cleaned, prepared and left whole, saving the ink
1 onion, roughly chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
6 ripe tomatoes cut into quarters
600ml fish stock
100ml dry white wine


Sweat off the vegetables for 5 minutes in a pan. Add the wine and reduce to nothing and then add the fish stock. Bring the stock to the simmer and add the cuttlefish. Simmer for 1 ½ hours or until tender. When the cuttlefish is ready remove from the stock and allow cooling. Strain off the stock for the vinaigrette and cool. When the cuttlefish is cold slice into 2cm strips and reserve until serving


For the purple sprouting
28 nice pieces of purple sprouting


Bring a large pan of salted water to the simmer and blanch the sprouting for 2 minutes. Refresh in ice water and drain off. If you’re doing in advance place in the fridge. If you’re serving straight away don’t refresh just serve immediately.


Ink vinaigrette
2 finely chopped shallots
75ml red wine vinegar
75ml cuttlefish stock
150ml extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp cuttlefish ink


Add the shallots, vinegar and stock together and leave to stand for 30 minutes. Then add the ink and whisk in the oil. Season with salt and serve immediately.


Garnish
20g fine capers
4 sprigs of tarragon, picked
Squeeze of lemon


To serve
Warm the cuttlefish up in a bit of the vinaigrette, not to hot. Place the sprouting, capers and tarragon into a large bowl and then gently mix with the warm cuttlefish. Add a squeeze of lemon and season with sea salt and black pepper. Serve in bowl plate with a jug of vinaigrette on the side.

Put together the simple set of ingredients (plumped for tinned rather than fresh toms)........

one cuttle simmering slowly in the sauce........

sliced and ready to serve turned gently in with the purple sprouting (plus a few heads of broccoli)........


PS The starter was a failure - don't be tempted to pick mussels from Porthmeor Beach in St Ives, they are full of grit - the beach is way too sandy methinks!